Boyer de Bar· Meursault

This is a partnership before it is a domaine, Vincent Boyer, of the Meursault Boyers, joined with Emmanuel Lucas de Bar to make wine on their own terms from 2019. The center of gravity sits a little away from the famous slopes, in the iron-rich red earth of the Hautes Côtes and a precious old block of Aligoté.

That Aligoté is the parcel I would point to first. The vines went into the ground in 1971, and Burgundy's overlooked grape, in hands this attentive and from soil this old, becomes something nervy and salt-edged rather than merely sharp. The 2023 came in at 12.2 percent, proof of how lightly they touch the fruit.

Everything here is worked without new oak, the rows ploughed by horse, the wines bottled raw. I carry Boyer de Bar for the unfashionable corners it farms so seriously, and for prices that still reflect a young name rather than the quality in the glass.