Carta Bianca· Chianti

A blank page is a brave name for a young Chianti estate, and Andrea Mazzoni earns it. He planted his flag here in 2015, first-generation, no inherited cellar, no dynastic weight to lean on, and that freedom shows in the wines.

Five hectares on galestro, clay and sandstone, climbing to 380 metres. The Chianti Classico is Sangiovese with a whisper of Cabernet; the Toscana IGT leans broader on the Bordeaux grapes. Twenty percent new oak, unfiltered, bottled with a light hand.

I carry Carta Bianca for the same reason I look past the famous names from time to time, there is an honesty here, a directness, that the established estates sometimes price out of reach. These are early days, and I am glad to be in on them.