Domaine Felettig· Chambolle-Musigny
About the domain.
Chambolle-Musigny is the most perfumed village on the Côte de Nuits, and Christine Felettig farms its lace-fine soils with a real feel for that delicacy. The premiers crus here, Les Fuées, Les Crais, Les Gruenchers, are the silk of the appellation, and she has them alongside scraps of two of Burgundy's summits: Clos de Vougeot from 1950 vines and a tiny tenth of a hectare of Musigny planted in 1948.
That Musigny is the kind of holding most growers only dream of, and in a warm year like 2020 it can be extraordinary. Christine works with restrained oak and a measured hand of whole-cluster, enough to lift the aromatics without ever weighing down a wine that should float.
The 2021s, taut and linear, show why I trust her in cooler vintages, and the frost-thinned 2022 Les Fuées is among the best wines I have seen from the domaine. I carry Felettig because great Chambolle is increasingly hard to find at an honest price, and harder still to allocate.
Ripe, precise.
Lower yields from spring frost. The Les Fuées is among the best I have tasted from the domaine. Whole cluster at 25%.
Taut, linear.
A cold vintage that suits Chambolle. Small volumes. The Clos de Vougeot has fine tannin and will reward patience.
Warm, generous.
Harvest began 28 August. Christine held her nerve and the wines have depth without heaviness. The Musigny is extraordinary.